Sewing-machine.



T. G. PLANT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. 1, 1908. RENEWED NOV. 22, 1909.

95 ,29 Patented May 17, 1919,

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

T. 'G. PLANT.

SEWING MAGHINE. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 1, 1908. RENEWED NOV. 22, 1909.

Patented May 17, 1910.

2 BHEETS-SHBET 2.

Cit

- UNKT v SEWING-MACHINE.

osseoc.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 17, 1910.

Application filed September 1, 1908, Serial No. 451,145. Renewed November 22,1909. Serial No. 529,304.

the following description, in connection with. .the accompanying drawings. IS a spcc1t1cation, like Cllill'tltittl'b on the drawings representing like parts;

The invention to be hereinattcn, described vrelates to sewing machines and more particularly to that type employed in sewing shoes.

In some classes of boots and shoes the sole edge projects at ditl'erent distances from the. upper at 'ditl'erent points, as in the so called Baltimore aml Scotch edge shoes. In securing the outsole in place. however, it is dcsirable. that. the line of stitches shall be dis posed atcertain distanccsfrom the sole edge reg.-1rdless,ot' variations in distance of such edge from the upper, and it is desirable that the line otstitches be carried well back from the edge in the shank portion of the shoe. Among the attempts heretofore made to se cure these results a movable edge gage adjustable toward and from the stitch forming mechanism during the sewing operation has been employed: fixed and movable edge gages have likewise been devised; but in all such edge gage. constructions, however, the ultimate position ot the line of stitches must still depend upon the skill of the operator with resultant unsatisfactory results, becansc. even though the edge gage be automatically moved toward and from the stitch 't'orming mechanism during the sewing oper ation, as has been suggested heretofore, the operator. however skilled, will tilt or incline the boot or shoe more or less in a vertical plane, with the result, that while the line of stitches may appear properly located with respect to the sole edge on one face of the work, it will be either too close to or remote. from the edge on the opposite face. dependent upon the angle of tilt or inclination given the work by the operator during the sewing operation.

The present invention aims to overcome the defects and object ions incident to the de vices heretofore employed,- and to provide means, quite distinct. from the various forms of edge gages of the prior art, whereby the line of stitches will be properly disposed the. desired distance from the sole edge on both faces of the work, all of which will more fully appear in the following description and accompanying drawing of one form or embodiment of the invention.

In illustrating and exploiting the invention, it has been shown as applied to a machine for sewing the outsole to the'welt of a welted shoe of the general type disclosed in the patent to French and "Meyer N0. etT3,870, dated April 26, 1892, it being understood, however, that the invention is not' restricted thereto, as obviously it may be employed in other relations. as in securing the outsole in a McKay sewed shoe and the like.

In the drawings: Figure 1 is a side elevation showing suflicient of the machine 'to make clear the relation of the present invention to the associated parts, some of which are broken away and others of which are shown in section; l ig. 2 is a section on line 22 of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a front elevation looking from left to right in Fig. 1 with the shoe omitted; Fig. -11 is a section on line lt of Fig. 3; and Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view showing, on an enlarged scale and, by full lines, the path of the stitch as it passes from one to the opposite face of the work and its proper location on each face of the work as determined by tilt controller or preventer, and, by dotted lines, the etfect; of tilting the work when such'feature of the present invention is not employed.

The frame-work A of the machine, only part of which is shown, is and may be of any suitable shape and construction to support the working parts. This framework, as indicated in the before-mentioned French and Meyer patent, for instance, has suitable bearings for a main shaft A, Fig. 1, having fast thereon a series of cams, as shown in said patent, only one of said cams, B, being illustrated in the present drawings.

The frame-work has a guide-box A in which is fitted to move longitudinallythe feed slide'B, it. having at its inner end an upright B which receives a fixed stud a, upon which is mounted'loosely the usual awl segment a, Fig. 3, to which is attached the awl a, saidparts, together with the needle b and its actuating means, being, if desired,

substantially as set, forthin said patent.

The cam groove in the periphery of the cam B receives a roller or stud 13 extended from a lever B fulcrumed on asuitable stnd B in the stand B", one end or arm of said lever, as B", being provided with a,

groove for the reception of a block 15, Fig. 2, carried by the feed regulating lever B fulcrumed upon the. stud 17 carried by an 'ear B secured adjustably to the feed slide 13*, whereby, by movement of the feed regulating lever B to difi'erent positions as defined by the stop pins 6, Z) adapted to any one of a series of holes I), b, in a plate 12 the reciprocation of said feed slide and consequently the length of the stitch may be regulated, all of 'which may be asusual or as pointed out in the said reference may be had.

Secured to a stationary part of the machine head is'a table or work-support l patent to which which, in the construction .illustrated, is

adapted to sustain the projecting edge of a boot or shoe S, said table'or work support,

in this instance, furnishing a rest for the neath,- as will be fully understood by those skilled in the art without further elucidation.

From the construction thus far described and the patent heretofore mentioned, it will be apparent that the roject'ing edge of a shoe sole, as indicated in Fig. 1, may be clamped between the presser-foot and table and the successive operations of forming the stitches and feeding the work may 'be performed. As heretofore stated, however, it is desirable that the line of stitches shall be disposed at certain distances from the edge of the work, re ardless of the distance of the edge from t e u per, and heretofore a:

movable ed ehgage as been employed to bear upon t e edge of the sole, said gage being movable or adjustable during the sewing opcration'to secure the desired positlon of the line of stitches. In the present invention, however, such edge gages have been entirely omitted, as the correct position ofthe line of stitches has been secured by the means now to be described.

The outsole t, or other part to receive the stitches, is provldedwith a channel or groove 1 i the material to correspond.

Z extending groove belng located a distance from the sole edge. corresponding to the desired location of the line of stitches, For instance, if the desired distance ,bf the line of StltChGS from the. sole edge about the forepart is less than the distance desired about the shank,- the channel or groove l will be made ac-' cordingly; and, similarly, ifthis distance is to be. varied about/the forepartor made uniform, the channel or groove Will be formed- The resser-foot 4 is provided with a nose 6, Figs. 1 and 3, of a shape to enter; or enabout the same, said channel or ably mounted for movement relative to, and

preferably also in unison with, the presserfoot lever 3, whereby said nose 6 is rendered movable relative to the presser-foot in the line of feed while engaging said channel or groove. The carrier 6* may be pivoted on the bracket B" and suitably connected with the presser-foot to partake of its rising and falling movements, or may be mounted on the stud 5 for movement longitudinally thereof and operatively connected, by any suitable means, with the feed slide. While the precise construction and arran ment of these parts may be varied as esired, the preferred form thereofis shown and described in a pending application Se-' rial No. 436,329,.filed June 3, 1908. ever the construction, the nose '6 is preferably so disposed relative to thepresser-foot as to form, in effect, anintegral part thereof when the presser-foot is in its work engaging position. In any event, the said nose acts as a fixed guide and, by its engagement with the channel or groove Z, causes the work to automatically adjust itself back and forth according to the varying positions of said channel or groove with respect to the sole edge. Thus in this feature of the inventidh and by reasonof the previous formation of the channel or groove, as describedf'the line of stitches is accurately disposed with rela-.

tion toth'e edg'g of the work without the uncertain conditions that ai-ise in the use of an I edge gage movable towardand; from the stitch; forming mechanism.

The previous formation of the channel or groove with respect to .the sole edge and the action" of the nose-fitherein will, obviously, cause the line of stitches to be properly positioned on that side or surface of the work,

but should the shoe be not properly held by the operator or be tilted or inclinedto varying positions, the line of stitches on the opposite side or surface of. the work will Vary with respect to distance from the sole edge This is well shown inthe diagrammatic view in Fig. 5, whereinit will be noted that when the work S is held in the full line position, 'the needle I) will pass through the channel or groove Z on one face and emerge at the opposite face at a point substantially the same distance from the sole edge as is the channel or groove Z, so that the line of stitches will be substantially the same distance from the edge on both sides orsurfaces of the work. If,,however, the shoe be tilted upward, as indicated by the dotted lines S, it will be seen that while the needle may enter the Work through the channel Z, it will emerge from the work at a point nearer the edge than is the channel or groove Z, and, similarly, if the shoe he tilted downward, as indicated by the dotted line S the needle will emerge from the direction of the stitches where they pass through the work, and to secure this result the following means is contemplated as one form or embodimentot this feature of the invention, which may, for identification, be termed a tilt preventer.

Pivotally mounted upon a fixed bracket 7,

.or other suitable part, at 8, is a lever 9, carrying at its upper end portion an arm 10,

preferably connected to said lever 9 by an adjustable connection 11. Said adjustable connection is shown, in the presentiorm ot' the invention, as an-arm having one end secured to the lever 9 by a slot 12 and set screw 13, a recess or socket 14: being preferably .formed in the end of the lever S) into which One end of the arm 11 may slide, so that by loosening theset screw 13, the arm 11 may be adjusted as indicated. The other end of the arm 11 is preferably upturned and provided with a recess or socket 16 to receive the end of the arm 10, having a slot 18 and a set screw 19, so that by loosening the set screw 19, the said arm 10 may be adjusted,

as indicated. Obviously,other forms of con? nection may be employed between the arm 10 and lever 9, as will be evident to those skilled in the art.

The arm 10 is preferably curved upward and downward, as indicated in Fig. 3, and carries at its end a roller 20, adapted, when the boot or shoe is in correct position for sewing, to bear upon the surface of the outsole and thereby prevent the operator from tilting the work, and enable him to hold the shoe with an upward pressure against the roller to cause the line of stitches to be correctly positioned, as will be clear from the foregoing description.

The-upward and downward bond is given the arm '10 to carry the same out oi the line of vision of the operator he stands m front of'the machine looking at the stitching point, but, obviously, changes in form and disposition of the parts may be made within the true field of this feature of the invention which is characterized l'i'y means bearing upon the work to prevent improper tilting thereof and consequent (l.l:'-Jtll1'l)ttl](jt oi the line of stitches with respect to the sole edge. As well known to those familiar with boot and shoe constructions, it 1s desirable that so that the nose 6 of the presser-foot may properly guide the shoe for such position of the line' of'stitches. It is desirablenvhile stitching the shank portion that. the oper-' ator be permitted toi tilt the shoe, because in back from the edge that if such tilt were impossible there is danger among other things that the needle will cut the inseam stitches which secure the upper and insole, or the up- 'per, welt and insole, together. It also usual to'lengthen the stitches at the shank portion, and with these and other facts in view, the tilt preventer is provided with means for moving it into position to bear upon the sole and prevent tilting thereof: while sewing around the forepart, and to remove it from such position to enable the shoe to be tilted while sc'wing the shank portion. One means for securing these results will now .be described without, however, rc-

stricling the invention thereto;

Extending longitudinally through the feed regulatinghandle or lever 3 is the tilt preventer shaft 21., best shown in dotted. lines in Fig.2 and :i-n cross section in Fig. 4.

is-a handq'ii cce 22, the connection between said hand piece and shaft 21, in the present form of construction, being secured by a pin 23, dot ted lines Fig. ()n the. opposite end of the sha'lt. 2L is an operating arm 2+, said arm being secured to the shaft 21 pre'l erably by a split sleeve 25, the parts of said sleeve being clamped upon the said shaft 21 by a set screw 26, l ig's. 2 and 4. Fromthis construction it will be clear that as the handle 22 is turned, it will turn the shaft 21 and correspondingly move the operating arm 2%. The said operating arm 2i, Figs. 1 and a, has at its upper end a rounded projecting p(fi'tion 27 adapted to engage the slotted end 28 of the lever l). The slotted end 28 oi the lever 9 is caused to bear-constantly upon the end 27 ot' the actuating arm 24- by means of the spring 25), one end o'l which is secured at 30 to the lever S), and the other end (it which is secured at 31. The terminal portions of the slot. 28 of the lever flare rounded or tollmed with seats 32, 32-3,

.i'espcctively. said seat 33 acting when ongaged with the end 27 of the actuating arm 24-,in connection with such end 27, as a yielding locking means to prevent movement of the lever 5} about its pivotal point 8 by upward pressure upon the roller 20 carried on the arm 10. The construction of these parts is such that upon movement of the actuating arm 24 in one direction to the .some c: scs the channel orgroovcis so'far 5(5 cured to thej uter end of the said shaft 21.

limit of the slot 28, it will cause the tilt preventer to carry its roller 20 downward into position to engage the surface of the sole being stitched, and when moved in the opposite direction it will permit the spring 29 to lift the tilt preventer and carry-the roller 20 upward or away from the sole, all of which will be clear from the construction illustrated.

As hereinbefore stated, it is sometimes desirable to lengthen the stitches at the shank portion of the sole, and it is likewise. desirable while stitching the shank portion that the tilt preventer be thrown to inoperative position. By mounting the shaft 21 in the feed regulating lever B", and operating said lever and shaft by means of the handle 22, it will be seen that the firstaction of the handle 22 will be to turn the shaft 21 and thereby throw the tilt preventer into or out of. operative position according to the direction of force upon the handle 22, and thereafter to move the feed regulating lever B to lengthen or shorten the stitches ac- I cording to the direction of movement.

It may-be desirable in SOIHQCHSQS to maintain the same length of stitch throughout the forepart and shank portions of the shoe, in which event the pins 7), b are placed in their appropriate holes b to prevent movement of the slide '15 in the slotted arm b of the actuating lever B, whereupon movement of the handle 22 will simply operate the shaft 21 and the actuating arm 24: to throw the tilt preventer into and out of operation as desired. v v v From the construction hereinbet'o-re described, it will be clear to those skilled in the art. that 'the line of stitches will be properly located with respect to the sole edge onlioth faces of the work, tlie'edge portion of the work resting, during the sewing operation, upon the uppersnrtace of the table, and that, in the construction shown and de scribed, the uncertain action of edge gages with their consequent objections is entirely eliminated. Claiin 1.'In a shoe sewing machine, the coinbination of a table or work support toengage and sustain the work, stitch forming mechanism, a presscr-foot, a guide to engage the work to determine the distance of the line of stitches from the sole edge on one surface of the work, a tilt preventer inde: pendentof the presser foot to engage the surface of a shoe soleto determine the inclinationof the work with respect to the table and causethe line of stitches-to appear in a desired position on the opposite sri i' fface of the work, and means for causing tire tilt/ preventer to be operative while sewing on one part and inoperative while sewing on another part of the shoesole.

2. In ashoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support to sustain the work, stitch forming mechanism, a .presser foot for holding the work on the table, a guide to determine the distance of the line of stitches from the .edge of the to engage the surface of a shoe sole and determine the vertical tilt of the shoe, and

, means for moving the tilt preventer during the operation of the machine to vary the position of the line of stitches on the opposite surface of the 'work with respect to the sole edge.

binatio n of .a table or work support to engageand sustain the work, stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot for holding the .fioll t upon the table or work support, a guide to determine the position of the line of stitches from the edge of the sole on one to be tilted and contacting with the sole to determine the direction of the line 'of stitches'througli the work and maintain the desired position of the line of stitcheson -the opposite surface of the work withre; spectto the edge thereof about the forepart.

4. In a shoe sewing machine, the com-- bination of stitch forming mechanism,

of stitches on one surface of the work, a presser-foot. and means to limit the vertical direction of the stitches where they pass from 'one surface of the work to the other as said shoe is being stitched about the forestitches with respect to the sole/edge on the opposite surface of the work, said means permitting increased inclination of'the shoe n sewing around the shank.-

5. Iii-a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support, stitch forming mechanism, a presser-foot a guide .justment of the shoe with respect to the stitclrforming mechanism, a tiltpreventer movable (hiring the sewing operation into position to "engage the shoe and determine spect to the direction ofthe stitches'where they pass through the work that the line of stitches may be. properly positioned on both .the. tilt preventer in position.

(L'Tn a shoe sewing machine, the com- 'liination of a table or work support to sustain the work during thosewing operation, stitch forming mechanism, a presser-foot means to position the. work "With respect to the, plane of mmiemcnt of the stitcli -fo1'm surface thereof, and means inoperative while sewing around the shank to permit the work surface while sewing around the forepart inclination of the shoe with respect to the in cooperativerelation with the p'resser. foot-,to engage a groove in the surface of the work and determine the transverse ad' the inclination or tilt of the work with rework on one surface thereof, atilt preventer 3. In a'slioe sewingmachine, the commeans to determine the position of'the line part to determine the position of the line of surfaces of the work, and a locl'cifor holding ing mechanism to cause the line of stitches to be formed at the desired distance from the work edge 011 one side of the work, and a tilt preventer mounted for contacting with the surface of the sole while sewing around the 'forepart to determine the position of the line of stitches with respect to the sole edge on the opposite surface of the work and disengaging the shoe while sewing around the shank portion to enable the position of the line of stitches to be changed.

T. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support to sustain the work during the sewing operation,

stitch forming mechanism, a resser-foot means to determine the bodily movement of the shoe in a direction transverse to the line of stitches, means acting upon the shoe independent of the presser foot to control the inclination of the shoe with respect to the table while sewing around the forepart to cause the line of stitches to be positioned as desired with respect to the edge of the work on both sides thereof and devices for rendering said means ineffectual while sewin along the shank portion to permit increase inclination of the shoe.

8. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support, stitch forming mechanism, a tilt preventer movable to and from a position to engage the sole of the shoe to determine the tilt or inclination of the shoe, and llltlllb for throwing said tilt preventer into and out of operative position.

9. In a. shoe sewing machine,the combination of a table or work support, stitch forming mechanism, a tilt preventer movable into and out of operative position, and means under control of the operator for moving said tilt preventer into and out of operative position.

10. In a shoe sewing machine, the combi nation of a table or work support, stitch forming mechanism, a tilt preventer movable to and from a position to engage the sole of a shoe being sewe'd at a point remote from the stitch formation to cause the line of stitches to appear in desired position with respect to the's'ole edge on both surfaces of the work, and means for moving said tilt preventer into and out of operative position.

11. In a shoe sewing machine, the combi nation of atable or work support, stitch forming mechanism, a tilt preventer to engage the sole of the shoe to determine the tilt or inclination of the shoe, means for throwing said tilt preventer into and out operative position, and a lock for holding the tilt preventer in operative position.

12. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support, a presscr foot opposed thereto and having a nose to travel in a channel or groove formed in a shoe sole to determine the distance of the line of stitches from the sole edge, means to determine the tilt or vertical inclination of the shoe with respect to the direction of the stitches where they pass through the work, and means for moving said first-mentioned means into and out of operative position.

13. In a shoe sewing machine, the combi: nation of a table or work support, a presser foot opposed thereto and having a nose to travel in a channel or groove formed in a shoe sole to determine'the distance of the line of stitches from the sole edge, said nose being movable with respect to the presser foot, means to determine the tilt or vertical inclinationof the shoe with respect to the direction of the stitches where they pass through the work, and means for moving said first mentioned means into and out of operative position.

14. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a table or work support, stitch forming mechanism and a tilt preventer comprising a lever, an arm carried by said lever and adapted to be moved into and out of a position to bear upon the sole of a shoe being sewed, and means for moving said arm into and out of operative position.

I 15. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of a. work support, stitch forming mechanism, means for varying the length of stitches produced by said stitch forming mechanism, means for defining the vertical tilt or inclination of the shoe, and devices for moving said last mentioned means into and out of operative position as the stitches are shortened and lengthened.

16. A shoe sewing machine comprising, in combination, a work support and stitch forming mechanism, means, movable into and out of operative position, for determining the-vertieal tilt or inclination of the shoe, and means for moving saidfirst mentioned means into operative position in seW-' ing around the forepart and for throwing said means out of operative position in sewing the shank portion.

17. A shoe sewing machine comprising, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for producing stitches of the desired length around the forepart, means for lengthening such stitches in sewing around the shank, means to determine the tilt of the shoe in sewing around the forepart and devices for throwing said last mentioned means out of operative position as the stitches are lengthened in sewing around the shank portion.

18. In a machine for attaching an outsole to a boot or shoe, the combination of a work support, stitch forming mechanism, means to guide the boot or shoe to determine its position transversely with respect to the stitch 'l'orming mechanism, a tilt preventer movable into position to,contact with the surface of the outsole and determine the tilt I at a point remote from the stitch form'n or inclination of the boot or shoe with respect to the direction of the stitches where they pass through the sole in sewing about the forepart and movable; from contact with the outsole to permit increased tilt or incli nation of the shoe in sewing hbout the shank portion. V

, 19. In a machine for sewing an outsoleto a boot, or shoe, the combination of a work support, stitch forming mechanism. a tilt preventer disposed to' contact with the S1 e '3 mechanism to define the direction of the stitches with respect to the sole where they pass through the'same, and means for adjusting said tilt preventer toward and from said stitch forming mechanism.

20. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a tilt preventer movable into and out. of a position to contact with the work at a point remote from said stitch forming mechanism to determine the direction of the stitches as they pass through the work, means for adjusting the tilt preventer to suit diiferent work, and means for moving-itinto and out of operative position.

21. In a shoe sewing" machine, the nemhi; nation of stitch forming mechanism, a work support, a guide acting externally upon a lasted boot or shoe to guide the boot or shoe While sewing around the forepart and the shank portions, a tilt preventer operative while sewing around the forepart to determine the direction the stitches shall t-ake in passing through the work, and means for rendering said tilt preventer ineffectual while sewing along the shank portion of the shoe. I

22. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a guide acting externally upon a boot or shoe to guide the boot or shoe while sewing around the forepart and shank portions, a tilt pre 'venter operativewhile sewing around the forepart to determine the direction the stitches shall take in passing through the work, means to lengthen the stitches in sewing the shank portion, and means for moving the tilt preventer into inoperative position when the stitches are lengthened.

23. In a shoe sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism and a guide for the work, in combirmtion with a tilt preventer comprising a member 9, an arm 10 secured thereto, an actuator 24 for said member, and a handle 22 for operating the actuator.

24. In a. shoe sewing machine, a tilt prerenter comprising amember. 9 carrying a part having a roller 20, a spring 29 acting to move the said member 9 in one direction, an actuator 24 for moving the member 9 in another direction, and means for operating the actuator. I

25. In a shoe sewingmaehine, stitch forming mechanism, a table or. work support 1 to receive upon it and externally sustain the projecting edge of the welt of a lasted boot or shoe, a resser-foot, a guide 6 to engage a groove formed in the surface of the shoe sole at a desired distance from the edge thereof, a tilt preventer independent of the presser foot and adapted to engage the surface ofthe soleito determine the inclination of the stitches with resppt to the two surfaces of the work, and means for rendering \St'liddllll'; prev'enter ineffectual while sewing along portions of the work.

26. In a. machine for sewing an outsole to a boot or shoe, the combination of a Work support, stitch forming mechanism, devices including said work support and a presserfoot for determining the location of the line of stitches on both sides of the sole, andmeans acting during the sewing operation for varying the relative positions of the line of stitches with respect to the sole edge on opposite sides of the sole, so that the line of stitches may be at the same or diiferent distance from the sole edge on opposite sides of the sole. In testimony whereof, I have signed my nameto. this specification, in the presence of two subscribin witnesses.

THoitAs GUSTAVE PLANT. Witnesses:

IRVING U. TOWNSEND, ARTHUR IV. CALVERT. 

